Back to Oaxaca with Conductor Gris

The little Lineas Unidas bus was full, so two of us got to sit up front with a very friendly driver, Geovanni Gris, who, when he learned I am a biologist, shared lots about plants, but also language and culture. He explained how a tall grass, carrizo, I’d mistaken for corn is used for basket-making. It’s been planted in the US but grows wild in Mexico, often on extremely steep slopes, but also by wetlands.

I hadn’t seen many cattle during my trip, and when we saw a pair yoked to a plow, he said the yoke is called a “yunta,” and usually has one older cow who teaches its younger partner, who is stronger. 

He mentioned “poleo” tea, which translates as Mexican pennyroyal but is really a kind of vervain whose scientific name is Lippia turbinata. He said it will pick you up the morning after you drink too much.

Giovanni made a beautiful tlaloc mask for Dia de los Muertos. Tlaloc is the big native salamander similar to our hellbender except for the thick ring of gills around its neck. His version is much more fierce looking…He’s from San Agustin, about 1 hour north of Oaxaca on the road to Mexico City.
Though initially in the mountains, most of the journey was on broad valley roads, slowed only by the many speed bumps. This is agave used in making mezcal.
Most of the main road into Oaxaca is divided, with bougainvillea and other flowering shrubs and trees planted for miles.

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